Still nowhere near clearing the backlog of entries we have accumulated over the past month. Oh well, we'll deal with those as we see fit, and concentrate instead on the new ones.
Today, even as the unending warm and sunny weather remains squarely upon us, we altered our plans yet again, on account of planned rain that was supposed to come in late in the afternoon, but, thankfully, never manifested...
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| The unmistakable Muckish plateau, standing proud over the forest |
Therefore, unlike what the unmistakable silhouette above might lead you you believe, our destination for today is not good old
Muckish, but one of the summits that stands between it and the
Errigal:
Aghla Beg.
We actually did this hike not so long ago, some time in late January/early February, which we recall vividly. This time however, our mindset is about as different as the weathers we've had on these two separate occasions. Gone are the glacial moody winds, the dull, overcast skies and the quest for that little bit of warmth that engulfed our soul then. Instead, this Sunday is as sunny and warm a one of continental summer.
Bit too warm and sunny actually, because having to keep the camera in the hand becomes a bit of an inconvenience (no jacket = no pockets large enough + this camera model doesn't suit a lanyard), and we are also childishly hating having to waste precious minutes applying sun screen, when we should out be and about already!
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| Here's what we are climbing today |
We do like this long walk though, especially in dry weather like today's. For reasons that I can't really explain, the
Aghla summit remains one of these places we enjoy best. Plus there's definitely something about the smell of an evergreen forest during a hot sunny day...
Before we get to climb the mountain however, there's a fair bit of
travelling that needs to be done, across the forest itself. But since
that forest is exploited, we benefit from a very large path to do so, along which we find, zipping around, a very large amounts of
butterflies, as well as the occasional dragonfly.
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| A green veined butterfly (Pieris napi), which is commonly found all across Ireland |
Now, taking a picture of a butterfly is peanuts, even without a zoom: you just wait until it tires of flying, head slowly to where it landed, and Butterfly Bob's your uncle.
Taking a decent picture of a dragonfly, however, is a whole different story.
For one things, and much more than the bees who gave their names to the expression "beelining", these insects sure seem to have a straight goal in mind when flying, and are not wasting a single second trying to accomplish it, especially when they are covering the usually large distance that separates them from that goal. Plus, even if it so happens they chanced to land in relatively close proximity to you, the slightest motion on your part and they will take off again.
All this to say that the following is the best (and only picture) of all the dragonflies I saw that I can provide. And please don't count on me to attempt producing any more pictures of these temperamental flying devils - it's just too much of a hassle!
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| Find the dragonfly hidden in this picture, and win no prize! |
At least, the presence of dragonflies is a tell-tale sign that there is plenty of water around. But that doesn't really come as a surprise in these parts, even if the ground we trample on this large forest path is about dry as a Saharan dune.
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| The forest path, with some stacks of recently fell timber |
Now, as I mentioned, and as you can see from the picture above, this forest area is being actively exploited. Almost a bit too much for our taste because, as we arrive at the fork where we head right, in order to get closer to
Aghla, we fondly remember how there used to be a dense area of high
Sitka spruce, on the west and now desolated side of our path, that provided both a much welcome shadow as well as the unmistakable feeling that we were truly standing at the heart of a forest. Before those trees were felled, and after taking that turn, you felt that you had suddenly entered the kind of place where all sort of wildlife might cross your path, and where you got a very direct sense that, unlike what they want to believe, human beings are
not the real stewards of the earth.
On a hot day like this, we could truly have used being surrounded by tall conifers on each side, especially as our path is now starting to climb up under this most implacable sun.
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| The patch of forest that was felled, a few years ago, replanted with young spruces |
Besides, one of the problem faced with any tall forest being exploited in Ireland is that, as soon as you start felling an area, the ones next to it suddenly do get subjected to our strong tumultuous winter storms, with some dramatic results:
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| Some trees, on the east side of the felled patch, that got uprooted by the winds |
Still, this large area of forested land we are crossing does shine with a unique beauty, and even if not being able to obtain some precious shadow inconveniences us slightly, we are fond of observing the slow renewal of nature, as we watch it evolve whilst crossing the same paths year after year...
Presently however, we are going to deviate from what has now become our usual way in for this hike (ever since
Coillte, a.k.a. the organisation that does most of the silviculture in Ireland, fell another area of forest that made our access to the southern side of
Aghla a lot more convenient) which is the one we also took in Jan/Feb, and switch to our "old" means of accessing the mountain. To do so, we simply abandon the path in the middle of its largest bend, and cut right across the forest. With the sun still out in full force, this little shortcut where we are going to obtain a much desired shadow, is all the more inviting.
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| Heading towards the heart of the forest, wondering what kind of mysteries await... |
As soon as you step within the trees, it is truly a foray into another world, and one can't help but wonder how, venturing no more than a few meters inside the woods, completely changes one's perception and overall feel of a place. I guess evolution may have hardwired us mammals to be equally fearful and relieved about finding ourselves in the presence of dense tall trees. Still, today, I have to say I do feel mostly relief, on account of being able to dodge, at last, this much treacherous sun.
Yet, we don't need to venture that far into these woods before we come unto a hidden clearing, known only to us... as well as anybody who can read a (recent) map:
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| The clandestine spectacle of an exclusive secluded clearing |
A short walk to cover the length of that clearing, then cross across another small patch of forest and we find ourselves, at last, on the welcoming banks of
Lough Aluirg!
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| Lough Aluirg |
Of course, we pause a little to enjoy these most inviting arms. If we wanted, we could certainly see ourselves spending a most lazy afternoon here, feet dangling in the waters. But that is not our goal and I still have plans to bring you back to
Aluirg in other circumstances anyway.
Therefore, we begin the real climb. First by putting this annoying camera back in our backpack so that our hands are free of this inconvenience at last, and also by adjusting our clothes, to breathe unhindered. Now that's better!
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| Much to climb, still |
There again, since we are starting further west than usual, we're going to apply a variation to what has now become our usual path, and forget about ascending
Aghla Beg (South) directly, but instead move towards the north as we progress up. This'll bring us to the gap that stands right in the middle of the two summits. Not that we mind the straight climb of the south face (as a matter of fact, we tend to find the direct south route liberating and there is a memorable experience that I could relate about this), but since we are doing this hike often enough, we might as well stir just that little cloud of change in our tea.
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| Looking east, towards the path we just covered |
Besides, we're not ready to let
Aluirg off our sights just yet, and through this fine route, we do get the better views of it:
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| Lough Aluirg, with Muckish in the distance |
And thus, in a matter of minutes, we reach the gap between the twin
Aghla summit twins, leaving us with the ability to wander at ease towards whichever one we choose.
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| The northern Aghla summit |
Now, I'm going to be a bit cruel here, and offer just
one view from the top.
It's certainly not for lack of photos, as there are many more I took today (too many, in fact), that I could most certainly share especially since, no matter where you turned to, this place offers a striking display of what Northwest Ireland has to offer. However, I have decided that I will keep some of the perks of being a Donegal hillwalker to myself, even more so as this is one of my favourite hikes, and I'll have plenty of other occasions to make you discover more images from up here.
And if you are dissatisfied with data being rudely withheld from you, then I will tell you that you should stop reading a blog that'll never do justice to the beauty of this place anyway, and just head here already!
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| Lough Feane, whith Mackoght and Errigal in the distance |
We stay here a while, and oscillate between the two tops... before it's finally time for the climb down, using the direct south face route. The sun has now started its long setting course (yet there still are a great many hours before the night) which completely changes our colour palette once again and as we start on the way down, we can't fail but spot a large bush of
thrift, in full bloom, adding to our already sky high enjoyment of the place:
Soon enough, we are nearing the border with the forest. A fence stands in our way, but we use our usual place to cross it, the one where there exists a large helpful stepping stone:
By now, we are at this other area that was felled, which I mentioned earlier. As we are arrive there, we scare a lone female deer that navigates the leftover tree stumps as she flees, doing so with a dexterity that can only leave us envious, and then rushes into the forest patch on the right.
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| The area that was felled |
And so, without much trouble, we too manage to find our way back onto the forest path, right in front more stacks of timber.
All that's left now is to head back, but not without taking a few last glances are our surroundings in the quiet evening light.
A satisfying walk in a satisfying place - we'll be back here again, that's for sure!
Suggested Sound Track
Now, I wasn't really planning on getting back to
The Gathering that soon, especially as I am never short of different artists to populate these addenda. Yet, today is a special and unfortunate occasion, as I did learn right before I set off that
Al Bean, the 4th man to have walked on the Moon and probably my second favourite astronaut of all times (after
Pete Conrad, who is pretty much the
sole reason I have been calling myself
Pete around these parts) has sadly passed away.
In a yet unpublished post (that I am not entirely sure I will ever publish) I did write how much of a complete
Apollo buff I am. It also turns out that, mostly on account of its genial crew,
Apollo 12 is by far my favourite
Apollo mission. And just in case you doubt, let me ask you this: how many people do you know happen to have
both volumes of the NASA
Apollo 12 mission reports in their library?
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| Exhibit A: Proof that one can be both an Apollo nerd, and a hillwalker |
But I digress... The fact remain that
Al's passing is something is something we should all be saddened with, as everything I learned about the man leads me to believe that he was exactly the kind of person you want to send into space: One who has had enough artistic sense to be able to relate what he saw up there, as well as enough humanity to make
us feel, when recounting his experiences, that we were an active part of it.
If you've ever heard
Al talk, and how, in every interview he's made, there transpired a contagious and characteristic sense of wonder and gratitude, you know exactly what I mean.
Pete Conrad's flair, for selecting him as one of his two acolyte, for the second Moon excursion, really did this world a great favour. But I will most likely talk some more about
Pete Conrad's low-key genius, in future posts.
I can therefore only mark this sad occasion with a track that has everything to do with an
Apollo mission (albeit the one that came right after - for the record, the spoken background audio you'll here comes straight out of
Apollo 13's
EECOM console loop), even if it may seem out of place with today's walk.
But then again, when is space never out of place?
Additional pictures
